I can give them a touch up with a file if I need to, but I prefer to have the mower shop do it with their machine.
Thus I keep 3 or 4 chains and when I'm on the last one I put them in for sharpening.

PS I might add, another plus for having an expert do them is he can spot when it's time to ditch a chain that I might not see.

So, since my links to User Meters for Windows 7 hasn't worked out, you have decided to use your chainsaw on THE COMPUTER?

A bit drastic, don't you think, Herbie?

Lord Herbert wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 3:20pm:



Here's a novel idea... have you actually asked the repair-shop man?

This info isn't a trade secret, no reason why he wouldn't tell you.

Neferti wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 4:43pm:




As no one could solve the Usage Meter question, do you now understand a little better why I ask such questions here as a last resort? I do a lot of research before I finally open a thread here hoping to fluke it that somebody just might know the answer.

I haven't had one long even though I should have bought one twenty years ago, and haven't sharpened it yet. How do you best judge it needs a service or sharpening at a specialist?

skippy. wrote on Aug 17^th, 2014 at 9:22pm:



Some reasons:

When your tooth angles are all over the place. When you can't cut even with a
sharp chain because the depth gauges are too high. When the saw wants to
curve the cut one way or the other. When the chain stretches enough to need
shortening by a link (can happen on an old chain, or one which was a tad too
long to start with).

With time, experience, and/or a couple of quick lessons from someone who's 'in
the know' and the right tools, you can do most of it yourself. Even truing the bar
is a piece of p1ss if you have a bench-grinder (no, an angle grinder will not 'do').

Basic routine servicing can be done yourself (cleaning the air filter etc) but most
mech repairs are best left to the service-man, especially if your saw is still
(Stihl) under warranty. Most saws require special tools for any major work and
some of these can be quite expensive and not worth buying unless you're using
them regularly. Your local repair-man isn't likely to be lending you his, either.

Also saws, like laptop computers, are designed to be as small and light as possible
so, like a laptop, they aren't always easy to dismantle or re-assemble without the
risk of doing damage if you're not sure what you're doing. One, for example (the
Solo 640 and its derivatives) requires splitting the crank-case to replace the fuel
filter!!

George_Orhell wrote on Aug 18^th, 2014 at 8:52am:


I went online for a bit of a look earlier, and most seem to be between
25 and 30, George, so if he goes 30 he should be fine.

It will certainly be close enough for the saw to be usable, and it can
always be corrected next time the chain is sharpened if it's not exact.

Re the MS250, looked it up as well, nice saw.