Frank
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What is the difference? One good one not so much? Both good/bad?
In La cucina italiana non esiste, published on Tuesday, the food historian Alberto Grandi has risked his reputation by stating that a number of Italy’s most jealously guarded dishes developed thanks to influences from overseas.
“I may be seen as the enemy here in Italy, but this country has done well to create an image of its food and wine which did not exist as recently as 50 years ago,” he told The Times.
Pizza as we know it may have been invented in Naples in the 19th century, but if tomato was added back then, it was pieces of fresh tomato, not sauce, said Grandi, who teaches at the University of Parma.
“Tomato sauce did exist after it was introduced from Spain in the 18th century, but it was not preserved,” he said. “Only when it started to be canned in the US and taken back to Italy did it start to be used on pizza at the start of the 20th century.”
Today, the Italian prime minister, Giorgia Meloni, has seized on the task of protecting Italian culinary traditions from foreign meddlers as a way of pushing her patriotic agenda.
“The risk is confusing patriotism, which means saying we have the best food, with nationalism, which is saying outsiders are trying to destroy our culture,” said Grandi.
“The real problem is that today Italians lack an identity, and food has stepped into the breach,” he added.
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